I decided to skip the driver the hostel offered and make it to the pyramids on my own. The staff warned me 'it’s not like Europe, it’s difficult to get around'... but 100 Egyptian pounds (13 Euros) seemed very steep especially when you consider a night's accommodation is only about 40 EGP (5 Euros). Travelling on a shoestring budget it all mounts up when you consider the compulsory costs: entrance fee of 100 EGP (13 Euros) and to go inside a pyramid another 60 EGP (8 Euros).
The pyramids are 12 km out of the city and are not in fact in the Cairo suburb of Giza but rather a good 8km from there. It's a bit out of the way for most 'Cairenes' but my guidebook suggested you could get there for 1 EGP each way if you could flag down the correct bus from a street near the river. I would have to ask locals on the street to direct me to 'EL Haram' (pyramids) as there are no signs and no official stop*. I'll admit it was tricky; I hadn't anticipated how hectic the area was and ended up having to cross the equivalent of a multilane highway to get to the right side! After arriving at the correct underpass I was directed by locals to the No.8 bus and managed to get on without a problem.
Once on the bus a local man introduced himself as Ahmed came and sat down beside me. We began talking and it became obvious the bus we were on wasn't the elusive vehicle that would take you a just 500m from the pyramids. It did take me the right direction though, only 3 or 4km short. From recent experience it was difficult to know if I could trust Ahmed or if this was the beginning of a scam, but when he introduced me to his elderly father in the seat behind I decided he was okay. Ahmed said he and his father were going that way anyway so we got off together and the three of us hopped on a minibus for less than 1EGP each.
It was only a short ride and before they got off I paid for both Ahmed junior and senior although they complained profusely. I got off a little later with a teenager Ahmed had entrusted me with. He started walking with me and it seemed he was almost certainly angling to be my guide for 'baksheesh' (a tip). I told him thanks but no thanks persistently but he joined me anyway until I escaped through the barriers at the entrance. It's amazing how mixed the experiences are that you have here. One genuine local followed by someone looking to just make a buck on your goodwill. You can't really blame them though I suppose.
On an observational level it was a very interesting morning for me even before I reached the pyramids. It seems amazing how kind the locals can be and how much they look out for each other. A few things I noticed that day alone...
Firstly at the bus station while I was waiting a group of large respectable looking middle aged men were going through the pockets of a teen and were giving him a clear talking to. They took some notes out of his pocket, which it seemed obvious he must have stolen due to the body language all round. One of the men seemed to be saying something along the lines of 'make sure you don't do it again', he then pointed up as if to say 'God is watching, acting like this is no good'.
The boy took the dressing down, looked guilty and contrite and then they let him go. It seems the moral code here is strong.
Another interesting thing I noticed on the bus was how tickets are paid. As is quite common in a lot of places, passengers get on and pay the conductor at the back of the bus. However instead of everyone trooping through the crowded bus to pay him, people pass their money along to the other passengers. Eventually it gets to the collector and the ticket goes back down the chain, with any change!
Its just one example, but a very good one, of how trustworthy most people are, and how they work together.
The Giza plateau is supposed to be a crazy place for touts, and I suppose it is, but it’s easy enough to avoid parting with cash if you are determined. Like most tourist areas people will try to act as guides, often by just walking alongside you and giving information. Children sell postcards and knickknacks which they will put in your hands or in the crook of your elbow and then request payment for. The camels and horses are everywhere waiting to give you a ride up the dusty hill too.
I will admit I have never said one phrase so many times over and over in my life 'la shukran!' (no thank you). Usually this is enough to put them off and you will hear them say okay enjoy your stay.
The locals (even the touts) really appreciate it if you speak even a bit of Arabic and I think that set me in good stead there. In particular 'Salam Alaykuum' (peace be upon you) seems to break the ice and is much appreciated.
'You speak Arabic?' They would ask in amazement. Quite a few people even suggested I look Egyptian and I even had a comparison with Omar Sharif who I had to google later and was pretty happy with. Flattery is another weapon in the tout's armoury it seems. And one that could be my Achilles heel!
Without really planning it I did succumb to one 'camel driver'; Assef, who I will admit earned my trust with his conversation and manner.
He offered me a camel ride around the pyramids for 30 EGP (4.50 Euros). We agreed the price, he looked me in the eye and shook my hand and that was good enough for me. I could have got cheaper but this seemed a good price and I liked Assef and his camel Alex (Alexander). It seemed very unlikely he would hold me 'hostage' on the camel until I paid a higher, as apparently happens.
It was a very comfortable ride for about 45 minutes and of course the scenery is amazing. Trotting around from the increased height of the camel gives you a good view and it was even better that there were only a thin spattering of other tourists around.
A lot of people say you will be disappointed by the pyramids when seeing them in the flesh but I cannot see how. They are truly magnificent and it is amazing to see the images of childhood dreams revealed to you in person. The sphinx 'Abu a hul' standing guard at the bottom is also a special sight. Assef said the name in Arabic (literally terrifying one) did not mean he was considered by the locals as 'evil' but rather as a fearsome guard of the tombs.
I stayed at the pyramids for about three hours before I had had enough and dehydration started to set in. I have never been so thirsty and felt like I had cotton balls in my mouth. It was time to dodge the touts and cab drivers and find the correct bus stop to get back.
I walked about 500 m along the highway before asking an old lady waiting on the roadside how I could get back to Tahrir Square (in the central city).
She was very respectable looking wearing robes and a headscarf. She took it on herself to walk me a few hundred metres and then shout to the drivers 'Tahrir, Tahrir!' until one of them stopped. This is how it's done here. I got on and thanked her profusely before climbing on board the old minibus with more locals keen
to ask questions and ensure I got off at the right stop.
Not only had I seen an amazing sight but I had some genuine experiences too. This is what independent travel is all about.
* As a side note it's worth saying all the signs on the bus are in Arabic as well as the numbers. I was surprised as I had thought our numerical system was actually Arabic. It turns out that is not the case!
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