Friday, June 24, 2011



It's been an enjoyable few weeks in Bulgaria. There's a lot to do here; a varied countryside, kind people as well as really nice food. It seems a bit more Mediterranean than Slavic, and the weather has been really hot.
From the quaint medieval city of Veliko Tarnovo to the pleasure coasts of Varna and the smallest town Melnik, it has been a great few weeks.

I started with a few days in Veliko. I stayed in a really nice relaxing hostel, went walking around the old town and witnessed the impressive lightshow centred around the castle each night. It seemingly told the story of the town through centuries of strife: A very dramatic and unique show.

Just a few hours south is the very touristic but pleasant black sea coast city of Varna. There are bars and restaurants all over the beachfront and it's well set up for the thousands of European tourists that travel there every year. It was like swimming in a warm pool and despite a mishap regarding forgetting to use sunscreen it was fun.

A group of us found a less touristy beach a few miles down the highway which was as notable for the liberal attitude of the beachgoers as the clear blue water. Small bikini briefs and oil were the order of the day and it must be said it was great to be around such basking beauties.

After the coast I headed west to the capital Sofia. Sofia is a nice city with a lot of interesting buildings, for example one of the biggest mosque in Europe and the biggest Synagogue. I took a day trip from here to Rila Monastery two hours south. Said to be the spiritual home of the nation the monastery was founded by the hermit Ivan of Rila in the 9th century. He's entombed in a cave high in the hills above and his shrine is treated with reverential respect. The monastery itself is a grand building covered with colourful orthodox artwork depicting amongst other things scenes of heaven and hell. All manner of outrageous punishments awaiting the unbeliever and these scenes are the ones that stay in the mind. It's still a working monastery and monks live in the surrounding simple quarters around the main church.

Melnik, the smallest town in Bulgaria is not on the typical tourist trail. Just 15 km from the Greek border it’s famous for its vineyards and nearby monastery
so I thought it would be an interesting side trip.
During several hours hiking into the Pirin Mountains I saw all sorts of creatures enjoying the unadulterated forest tracks including tortoise, lizards, birds and at least one goat.

The so called 'sand pyramids' rise up all around and the views are breathtaking.
After a visit to the secluded Rozhen monastery among the vines it was time to head back to sample a drop of the famous Melnik Red wine at the local winery.
It was very nice to sit and unwind many steps above the town in the evening sunshine.
I just had time to savour the taste before the sky started rumbling and the darkness of a summer storm descended. I got back under shelter to enjoy it as the thunder boomed and lightning forked over the hills above.


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